We’re told by board-certified dermatologist Dr. Brendan Camp of MDCS Dermatology that hyperpigmentation — what some simply call “dark spots” — is a common skin condition that can be difficult to resolve because there are a limited number of effective treatments.
“Hyperpigmentation refers to blemishes that appear darker than surrounding normal skin. [It’s] a common consequence of inflammation that occurs as a result of acne, infections, or skin trauma,” Camp said.
To make matters even more challenging, many existing products on the market that claim to treat hyperpigmentation don’t work for all skin tones, namely deeper or more melanated complexions, according to S’Able Labs co-founder Sabrina Elba.
Launched in 2022, S’Able Labs is a Black-owned skin care company that formulates fragrance- and cruelty-free products specifically to treat hyperpigmentation on melanin-rich skin (though all skin tones can benefit). It combines ancestral ingredients and knowledge with modern science to minimize dark spots and also prevent inflammation that causes hyperpigmentation.
HuffPost previously spoke to Elba, a trained esthetician, who said her team at S’Able pursued African-sourced ingredients ike qasil, rooibos, black seed and others, specifically for their reputation for inhibiting the growth of excess melanin and offering antioxidant protection.
The brand has also dedicated itself to more sustainable production by offering lower waste product refills, recycled packaging and responsibly sourced ingredients through traceable supply chains.
Camp spoke a little bit about these potent botanical-powered ingredients and how they can potentially help you achieve your complexion goals, whether you want a more even skin tone or a stronger skin barrier. Take a look at all of S’Able Labs’ product offerings in the list ahead which include targeted wrinkle-fighting serums, brightening moisturizers and more.
The experts consulted for this story do not necessarily endorse the products ahead unless otherwise noted.
A peptide-infused retinol serum for anti-aging
When it comes it anti-aging skin care, there are two staple ingredients that most dermatologists will tell you to look out for: peptides and retinoids. This facial serum contains both, but in forms that are probably a little less common or well-known. It has a unique peptide complex derived from okra that Camp previously explained "may reduce the appearance of expression lines by working as a neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide." In other words, it can function similarly to Botox by temporarily freezing the dynamic muscles responsible for forming fine lines — though it's important to note that no topical treatment will be as effective as in-office injectables.
The serum also contains HPR, more commonly known as granactive retinoid, which can accelerate the cellular turnover rate, thus promoting more collagen production, leading to skin that's firmer and more plump. One of the benefits of retinoids in this form is that it's gentler than commonly found retinol or prescription Tretinoin.
This formulation is also packed with brand-exclusive compounds that promise to minimize pigmentation and reduce inflammation that causes hyperpigmentation, along with nourishing oils that support a healthy skin barrier like baobab and moringa oil.
"[Baobab] is popular because of its ability to moisturize dry skin and is rich in vitamin C, a powerful antioxidant that may offer brightening properties," Camp said.
Promising S'Able Labs review: "I really love this serum. I’m in my mid-60’s and have uneven hyperpigmentation and melasma on cheeks and forheard and parched skin. I’ve used everything and had many visits with dermatologists. Some things worked temporarily and made things worse. Some products made my face crackle with dryness so I stopped using harsh chemicals on my face and skin in 2020. I went back to basics concentrating on my skin barrier, hydration and sun protection. My face calmed down and I realized I have very sensitive, easily irritated skin and that I always did! Using caustic chemicals over chemicals had been making everything worse! Even retinol irritated my skin to the point it dried out my nose and I had constant sinus infections. I ran across S’ABLE LABS 6 months ago, beginning with the Okra Serum. It’s a game changer and I won’t ever be without it: it has changed the texture, reactivity, inflammation and helped with wrinkles and discoloration and has kept my face dewy, younger and refreshed - full and radiant. It works on all my issues like a superstar but without the negative side effects. Honestly I can not say enough positive things about this serum and I’m a little in disbelieve and so so wish I had this serum decades ago! I only use once per day at night. It took a few months to work up to everyday: it does have a natural type of retinol in it from Okra that gives the skin powerful benefits that are visible. It’s an amazing serum that targets the source of melasma (which in essence is inflammation of the skin) and fortifies and nurtures the entire face and neck. It does it all, gently but it’s a powerhouse. I love it along with the S’able’s Black Seed toner. Wow, what a find and at the Perfect time. Lastly it’s affordable which means I can use it routinely. Highly recommend." — Cassandra G.
A dark spot-fighting baobab moisturizer
Packed inside this lightweight and radiance-boosting moisturizer are several science-backed ingredients for skin brightening and protection, including niacinamide, an antioxidant that Camp previously mentioned that helps treat acne-related scarring and hyperpigmentation by brightening the skin.
"[It contains] tranexamic acid, a skincare ingredient derived from the amino acid lysine and used for its ability to reduce the appearance of dark spots," Camp said. "Often used to address hyperpigmentation from acne and melasma, it’s considered a skin brightening agent."
In addition to skin lipid-restoring hydrators like shea butter and squalane for a supple and nourished complexion, this moisturizer also contains bakuchiol, a natural alternative to retinoids that dermatologists have previously said has anti-aging benefits that mimic those of retinoids but lacks the potentially irritating effects.
Promising S'Able Labs reviews: "My dark spots are noticeably lighter, and my skin overall is much smoother and my face just looks brighter! I love this product!" — Rosemarie B.
"I have using Baob moisturizer for a year now. It pampers and leaves my face petal soft. I don’t even have to switch in wintertime because its formula is so effective, even in Chicago winters. It's gentle and works well under makeup, in love with this skin care line." — Debra R.
A brightening black seed antioxidant toner
"Black seed, also known as nigella sativa seed, is an ingredient [that] contains a bioactive compound called thymoquinone that has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties," Camp said of this dark spot-minimizing toner that features many antioxidant-rich ingredients like vitamin E, which can help ward off environmental stressors known to cause premature aging of the skin.
It contains ferulic acid —an ingredient dermatologists have previously told HuffPost has considerable strength and the ability to mimic vitamin C’s ability to protect the skin from your environment and toxins, but with less irritation — plus a more stable form of vitamin C that "promotes the synthesis of collagen, improves fine lines and texture," according to the brand.
But like any good refining toner, this one features a solid dose of chemical exfoliants in the form of five different fruit-derived alpha hydroxy acids, which are a standard choice for evening out skin tone and texture, according to skin care experts. All of these actives are balanced with soothing anti-inflammatories like panthenol and chamomile.
Promising S'Able Labs review: "This is just the best toner, to restore all the softness in your skin that you lose after exposure to the elements, make up removal or cleansing. It's really helped with calming my skin and reducing my hyperpigmentation from past breakouts. Bonus: It smells so good too!" — Angela E.
"I’ve never used a toner that didn’t feel harsh, to the point of drying out my skin. So I eliminated using toners all together. When I learned of S’ABLE and read the reviews for the Black Seed Toner…I ordered it based on those reviews. Without hesitation, I can honestly say, it’s wonderful! It’s so light and sheer when I spray it on my face. It feels amazing, and my skin feels nourished. I’m of a mature age, and would say, if you’re looking for a toner that refreshes and hydrates…this is it!" — Vanessa E.
A cleansing micellar water that restores the skin barrier
Micellar waters have become a popular way to lift away excess oils and debris from the skin, and this rooibos-containing formula also provides some added skin benefits beyond just cleansing.
According to Camp, rooibos is a plant-derived ingredient rich in polyphenols, which are strong antioxidants that can protect skin from the effects of UV-induced free oxygen radicals. This clarifying no-rinse micellar water is delivered in the form of an ultra-fine mist and promises to boost the skin's hydration with the help of humectants like glycerin and oils that are rich in fatty acids. It can also strengthen the skin thanks to ceramides, which are the natural lipid components of a healthy functioning skin barrier.
Use this before your regular cleanse to remove makeup and sunscreen or whenever your skin needs a refresh throughout the day.
Promising S'Able Labs review: "My skin absolutely loves this product line! I have dry skin especially in the winter time and these products have been a staple for me. My skin is smoother and more luminous. My pores are tighter and my hyperpigmentation is fading. My favorites are the Micellar Water and the Qasil Cleanser. I will definitely be using these for the foreseeable future." — Shawona B.
A qasil cream cleanser featuring oat amino acids
At the heart of this gentle cream cleanser is qasil, a purifying ingredient with a long history in its native country of Somalia and more in antioxidants than vitamin C, according to the brand. Camp says this botanical ingredient can help brighten and revitalize skin as well as protect skin cells from oxidative stress.
The inclusion of kaolin and skin-softening oat amino acids draws out impurities and cleanses without leaving the skin stripped of oils or feeling tight like some aggressive facial washes with heavy surfactants. Instead, emollients like shea butter and squalane protect against dryness, while the addition of panthenol and aloe vera leaf juice soothe and offer anti-inflammatory benefits.
Promising S'Able Labs review: "For those who are hesitant about celebrity skincare, I get it. Often times, they are not well-intentioned and include lack lustre products. Having used this cleanser for the past few months, my perspective has changed. I appreciate S'able Lab's approach to skincare, especially when it comes to this product. It's a creamy cleanser than lathers nicely once you add a bit of water, but it's not obnoxious. Although there is no added fragrance, it has a pleasant, earthy scent that is likely due to the Kaolin. All in all, it gives me a thorough cleanse that doesn't strip my skin. I feel hydrated, comfortable and ready to get on with the rest of my routine. As a Black male with darker skin, I have also seen a brightness in my complexion. Hands down, 10/10." — Jon N.
An exfoliating qasil mask
Whenever you need a little skin pick-me-up, this exfoliating qasil mask can resurface, nourish and brighten the complexion in just 15 minutes. It uses a tried and true blend of natural cleansers and alpha hydroxy acids as well as beta hydroxy acids, which, together, are essential for smoothing skin texture, clearing clogged pores, eliminating impurities and fading dark spots.
But for as much exfoliating power as the S'Able Labs mask provides, the formula is also balanced with nourishers and emollients that lock in moisture — like mongongo oil, glycerin and skin-soothing oat extract. It features tons of anti-inflammatory ingredients as well in the form of aloe vera juice, rice protein and anti-inflammatory turmeric, which the brand claims can be particularly helpful for those with skin conditions like eczema, acne or psoriasis.
The whipped creamy mask can simply be rinsed off after the recommended wear time or, it can be massaged into the skin for more exfoliating power.
Promising S'Able Labs review: "My skin is really prone to white heads and acne especially on my forehead and left jawline. I have some hyperpigmentation around my mouth as well. Exfoliation really helped brighten my skin and removed dead skin. My skin feels smooth and glowing. Really love it! I would 100% recommend it." — San
"I enjoyed this mask more than I expected. At first I was already highly impressed with the list of ingredients and their promising functions yet it was only when I tried putting the mask on that I really understood how great it is. I have a lot of congestion around my nose and cheeks with quite acne prone skin too, it’s a hard combo. After using the mask I noticed significantly reduced blackheads and lesser spot scarring, my skin felt smoother and softer in touch, less oily and most importantly it felt right, comfortable and supple. It’s been a while since a skincare product worked this well on my skin and I’m very happy to recommend it. My skin has improved and I gained more confidence about my appearance." — Holden