I hate to say it, and this might be a bit of a hot take, but I don’t use tretinoin and I probably never will again in my life. While prescription-strength retinol may work well for some people – this isn’t to say you should stop using it if it does – I have personal beef with this particular active and I’ll explain why.
After using it for years in an attempt to clear up my acne-prone skin, I finally realized that it was doing a number on my delicate moisture barrier and my skin was just far too sensitive for such a strong active. In fact, it was actually making my acne worse – I learned through experience that my skin tends to react badly to prescription-strength retinoids and exfoliating acids.
Now, I opt for less irritating retinoid options like retinal (my personal skincare savior), but there are also a few other key products that helped my skin recover and I had to share. And, as it turns out, I’m not the only one who has struggled with retinoid damage. Other HuffPost editors shared a few of their own favorites in this department too. Ahead, find our top recommendations for any retinoid-induced skin damage.
A no-frills, irritant-free drugstore moisturizer
When all else fails, go for something simple and effective like Vanicream's daily facial moisturizer. This moisturizer is designed for extremely sensitive skin and is free of a ton of common irritants like fragrance, dye, and alcohol. It got me through some rough times. At one point, I couldn't use anything without my skin becoming red and irritated, but this ceramide-rich cream provided the right amount of moisture without breaking me out further. It has a lightweight lotion consistency, but really helps heal the skin barrier. It's also a great budget-friendly option if you don't have the means to spend a lot on a moisturizer. You can read more about my love for it here.
A drugstore cleanser with tons of hydrating ingredients
One HuffPost editor loves this purifying facial wash from beloved drugstore brand La Roche-Posay because it contains moisture-inducing ingredients like ceramides, niacinamide, and thermal water. With hundreds of five-star reviews on Amazon, it's safe to say it's a fan favorite.
A healing skin protectant
Another HuffPost editor recommended this healing ointment from CeraVe. This is a heavy duty healing balm that really locks moisture into the skin with petrolatum, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides. It is labeled as noncomedogenic, but petrolatum can be a tricky ingredient if your skin is highly acne-prone so proceed with caution if you do break out easily.
A retinal that’s perfect for my sensitive skin
After experiencing so much tretinoin damage, it took me a really long time to find a retinoid that actually worked for my skin without irritating it badly or making breakouts worse. This retinal formula is one of the best for acne-prone skin because it has a light, almost matte texture that absorbs quickly with little to no irritation. I say little because everyone's sensitivity levels are different, so there's always a possibility it could irritate you. But, I can say that this one never gave me any issues and I have extremely sensitive skin. The best thing about this formula is that it comes in a variety of strengths — from level one all the way up to 20 so you can work your way up if your skin can tolerate it. (Pro tip: It’s HSA/FSA eligible!)
Read more about retinal versus retinol here.
A non-drying cleanser that I finally discovered after so many false starts
Sadly, even most cleansers started to dry out and irritate my skin, even long after I stopped using tretinoin. After much trial and error, I found that this cleansing serum from Shani Darden was the beacon of hope my skin needed. It has the most beautiful hydrating texture to it, but still has a really nice lather that leaves your skin feeling squeaky clean. It also contains calming ingredients like olive and chicory extract to soothe irritated skin. Oat bran extract also helps to heal the skin barrier and prevent moisture loss — perfect for anyone experiencing retinoid damage.
A healing essence that’s nothing short of magic
Darden's products are definitely a bit more luxury-priced, but if you can swing it, combining this essence with the cleansing serum is absolute magic. I've used a lot of essences in my career, having been a beauty editor for five years, and I can confidently say this one is the best. Bamboo shoot water, glycerin, and sake water in the formula give it such a silky, hydrating texture and my skin just drinks it up twice a day. It's also oil-free and noncomedogenic so it's A-okay to use on acne-prone skin. Both of these products have been insanely healing for my skin — restoring lost moisture and brightening post-acne marks in record time.
A serum from New York’s “acne whisperer”
The tricky part if you're acne-prone and dealing with retinoid damage is finding the right exfoliant that won't irritate your skin or make breakouts worse. In fact, that was the trickiest part of my own skin healing journey. This gentle mandelic acid serum from New York aesthetician Sofie Pavitt works wonders for me.
According to Pavitt, who has been deemed "NYC's acne-whisperer," mandelic acid has a larger molecule size, meaning it doesn't penetrate the skin as deeply as other acids like salicylic. This makes it less irritating, but still effective. It helps so much with dryness, dark spots, and acne. I use this two to three times a week and that helps to keep my skin clear without it getting aggravated.
An enzyme mask to remove impurities
Early on when I stopped using tretinoin, I couldn't use any exfoliating acids at all because my skin was so sensitized. Needless to say, it was frustrating, but that's where enzymatic exfoliation can really come in handy. If you're experiencing irritation with exfoliating acids, try Drmtlgy's mask with pumpkin enzymes, ceramides, peptides, and kaolin clay. It gently decongests the skin without causing a major reaction.