Just a short time ago, we asked dermatologists about one skin care ingredient that we’d been seeing pop up more and more in products aimed at reducing the signs of skin aging. Growth factors, it seemed, were the new cutting-edge innovation that were now readily available in over-the-counter preparations, where previously you could only find them in the confines of a medical office.
Board-certified dermatologist and clinical instructor of dermatology at the Weill Medical College of Cornell University, Dr. Hadley King, told us in earlier HuffPost coverage that growth factors are signaling proteins that allow cells to communicate with each other.
“When [growth factors] bind to receptors on cell surfaces, they can send commands to repair, rejuvenate and replicate. They are used for anti-aging because they can increase collagen and elastin, thicken skin and improve tone and texture,” King said.
According to her, it’s likely that you’re hearing more about growth factors in skin care simply because there’s more research coming out to prove their potential when it comes to anti-aging and skin rejuvenation.
You can get more in-depth information about the many ways growth factors are derived, as well as why these growth factor-containing products are typically on the expensive side, from our previous reporting.
Or, if you’ve read all you need to know about their potential for visibly rejuvenating aging skin, then take a look at some products that King and others recommended below. We also threw in some more affordable options that we researched using King’s expert guidance.
While some of the options ahead are on the expensive side, we’ve also included some affordable options from brands like The Ordinary and The Inkey List, and also indicated where certain splurgeworthy products are HSA/FSA eligible.
The experts consulted for this story do not necessarily endorse the products ahead unless otherwise noted.
An affordable serum that contains three different growth factors
Our pick: The Ordinary is a no-fuss brand I personally adore for formulating affordable, limited-ingredient products that are often recommended by dermatologists. Unsurprisingly, The Ordinary has come out with an age-support serum containing a 15% concentration of three different growth factors at a truly accessible price point. Together, the growth factors work to enhance skin density and elastin, promote the production of collagen and the skin's natural renewal process.
An elasticity-boosting and plumping serum
Our pick: Costing less than $50, this firming and plumping serum by InnBeauty Project contains encapsulated vegan growth factors as well as topical collagen and ceramides, which are essential amino acids vital for a strong and healthy skin barrier. It also uses copper peptides, a skin-plumping ingredient that dermatologists have previously told us are proven to boost collagen production and elastin, which in turn can improve skin texture, firmness and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
A growth factor serum infused with skin-brightening vitamin C
Our pick: Another affordable growth factor product that we selected is this brightening serum by the Inkey List, another low-fi skin care brand that dermatologists have formerly given their stamp of approval. Not only does it contain a 1% concentration of plant-derived growth factors meant to help regenerate aging skin's appearance, but it also features 15% vitamin C. In case you don't know, vitamin C is a well-studied antioxidant that can prevent premature skin aging caused by environmental stressors and visibly brighten hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
An advanced serum that some dermatologists call the "gold standard" of growth factors
It wasn't just King who suggested the SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ serum. It also came at the recommendation of double board-certified and Austin, Texas-based dermatologist Dr. Kristina Collins and board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical, Dr. Rachel Westbay, who called it "worth the splurge."
She previously explained that it pumps serums out of two different chambers that work synergistically, the first of which is filled with a growth factor blend sourced from human fibroblast cells (grown in a lab) that maximizes cellular metabolism.
"The other chamber releases a blend of botanicals and marine extracts that contain collagen-stimulating peptides and hydrators to further help diminish the appearance of lines and wrinkles," Westbay said. "Think of it as the building blocks necessary for other skin care stars (like retinol, peptide serums and creams) to do the most they can do."
Collins said that this serum is often hailed as the "gold standard" in growth factor serums. $295 is a lot to spend on a serum, however, this is an FSA/HSA-eligible item.
A therapy body cream that targets thin, crepey skin
Board-certified and New York City-based dermatologist Dr. Brendan previously spoke to HuffPost about the best products to help treat stubborn necklines and suggested a product from Perricone MD's Cold Plasma+ line, a collection of the brand's most potent formulas meant to improve fragile, aging skin. Although he didn't mention this nourishing body cream in particular, we chose to include it because it features an epidermal growth factor peptide that's critical for improving the appearance and texture of thin, crepey skin. It also contains hyaluronic acid and retinol, a trusted ingredient for promoting cellular turnover and firmness to sagging skin. Apply this multi-tasking and ultra-hydrating body treatment to commonly crepey areas like underneath the arms and the neck.
A reparative moisturizer that heals fragile skin
Celebrity facialist Sarah Akram previously suggested this luxury moisturizer by Eighth Day, a brand that I'm also newly a fan of after trying a couple of its splurge-worthy products. According to Akram, the Eighth Day's regenerative line was developed by a leading reconstructive skin cancer surgeon who has gone deep into the science of what works. She called the Reparative Moisturizer a highly active and hydrating formula that leverages the brand's patent-pending stem cell technology, a composition of peptides, growth factors and amino acids that she said is highly effective at hydrating and repairing damaged and aging skin.
A clinical serum that can reduce expression lines
Collins suggested the Zo Skin Health growth factor serum, which she considers to be a standout product for combining plant- and enzymatically-derived growth factors with a proprietary protein complex.
"[It's] clinically shown to enhance skin thickness, elasticity, and hydration while reducing expression lines," Collins said. "Its lightweight feel and hydrating properties make it especially user-friendly."
This moisturizing serum, which supports the skin's natural replenishment of hyaluronic acid —a natural humectant necessary for skin to be hydrated — also contains beta-glucan and angelica polymorpha sinensis root extract. These two inclusions can help calm and soothe troubled skin.
An intensive growth factors serum infused with snail mucin
Akram also previously suggested these individual ampules by Biopelle Tensage, which she called the perfect science-backed skin care product that can visibly address dryness and a dull-appearing complexion
"[They] feature concentrated growth factor benefits for fast improvement in the appearance of lackluster skin with visible improvement in as little as 24 hours," she said, adding that these are suitable for all skin types. The intensive serum inside these freshness-preserving ampules also contains glycoproteins and antioxidants, which can help improve skin texture and elasticity and protect skin from premature aging.
$195 is a lot to spend on a serum, however, this is an FSA/HSA-eligible item.
A solution that helps treat dark spots and hyperpigmentation
If you deal with melasma, dark spots, or other hyperpigmentation issues and irregular skin texture, this skin-softening toner can dramatically improve your complexion, according to the brand and Calecim customers.
Growth factors are supplemented with a collection of chemical exfoliants and enzymes like alpha-arbutin and tranexamic acid to work on existing discoloration and prevent new spots from forming. Any abrasiveness or potential irritation that you might normally experience from exfoliating toners is offset with this formula's inclusion of sigesbeckia and green tea extract, two ingredients believed to have protective and anti-inflammatory properties.
A multi-action face cream that may increase skin density
With this daily cream by Calecim, a clinical skin care brand specializing in growth factors that Collins has spoken about previously, you can target multiple signs of aging at once, while also repairing compromised or damaged skin. Its main promise is to treat thin and sagging skin by boosting elastin, a naturally occurring protein that gives skin its taut look and "spring back" that's often lost with age. Like all Calecim's formulas, it contains an advanced growth factor complex, as well as barrier-strengthening linoleic acid and vitamin E, a well-studied antioxidant that can nourish and provide protection against premature skin aging.
A serum that contains human growth factors and a peptide complex
King suggested Neocutis' Bio Serum, a potent treatment that, according to her, contains proteins derived from fetal fibroblast cells — a type of derivative that some might find controversial, but may be more effective than vegan-derived growth factors. This firming serum also contains a proprietary peptide complex for adding plumpness and bounce back into sagging skin, effective skin brighteners and glycerin for drawing moisture deep into the skin.
A plant-based growth factor serum
If you'd rather use growth factors not sourced from humans or animals, King said there are some plant-based engineered options that have been well tested and shown to be effective. For example, the Bioeffect EGF serum, which she said uses a human-like epidermal growth factor that is made in bioengineered barley seeds.
"Studies have shown that it is effective in increasing skin thickness," King said of this radiance-boosting serum.