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The Current

Raw Milk Cheese: Risks & Rewards

Enthusiasts praise its taste and texture, but after an e.coli contamination in BC, some health experts warn it's time to re-examine the rules surrounding unpasteurized cheese.
Lovers of raw milk cheese say it's about taste. But Health officials say it's about risk, proven by a recent e-coli contamination in this country. We discuss whether raw cheese should be better regulated.



"We've hurt these people. We did it totally unintentionally. We were totally unaware of this bacteria being present in any of our product. We ask our customers to forgive us. We're just trying to hold it together".Kathy Wikkerink, Co-owner of Gort's Gouda Cheese Farm

The co-owner of Gort's Gouda Cheese Farm in Salmon Arm, B.C. sounds tormented over the fate of her customers. Kathy Wikkerink says her business is desperately trying to find out how e.coli bacteria could have slipped into its products.

Authorities confirm an elderly woman from the BC Interior died because of the contamination. Ten others fell ill, and the Public Health Agency of Canada has now recalled fifteen different cheese products. They all have at least one thing in common; they're unpasteurized, so-called raw milk cheese.

Kevin Allen is an Assistant Professor of Food Microbiology at the University of British Columbia. He feels regulation in Canada regarding raw-milk cheese do not go far enough because dangerous bacteria can still exist in raw-milk cheese even if its made following regulations. Kevin Allen was in Vancouver.

Health Canada advises concerned consumers to check the label or ask the seller if cheese is made of unpasteurized milk. Health Canada told us that it does not require raw milk cheese to be labelled. If a producer does label their product, labelling must be accurate.

" Health Canada establishes strict requirements for food safety to protect the health and safety of Canadians. We are always reviewing new and emerging science. Currently, the Food and Drug Regulations state that raw milk cheese must be stored at 2C or above for at least 60 days before being offered for sale. Health Canada's ongoing advice to pregnant women, children, older adults and people with a weakened immune system is to avoid eating cheese made from raw milk, as it does present a higher risk of food borne illness than pasteurised milk cheeses. If consumers are unsure whether a cheese is made of pasteurised milk, they should check the label or ask the retailer.".Statement from Health Canada

raw-cheese-insert620.jpg

Aging cheese made from raw milk sits on shelves. The raw milk is what gives the cheese its distinct flavor, which varies from
summer to winter depending on if the cows are eating grass in the pasture or hay during winter. (AP/Toby Talbot)


  • Steven Jenkins feels the risks of raw milk cheese are worth the rewards. He is senior VP of fairway market, the author of Cheese Primer and The Food Life, and Lifetime Achievement Award-winner of the American Cheese Society. Steven Jenkins was in New York City.


Do you eat raw milk cheese? Would you? Share your thoughts.

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This segment was produced by The Current's Kristin Nelson, Josh Bloch and Sujata Berry.


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