This Persian kebab spot is a hidden gem in North York - Action News
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Toronto

This Persian kebab spot is a hidden gem in North York

Rose Kebab is in The Diamond at Don Mills plaza at 16 Mallard Rd in North York.

Rose Kebab is in The Diamond at Don Mills plaza at 16 Mallard Rd in North York

Rose N.G. pours sauce on a shawarma platter.
The owner of Rose Kebab, who goes by the name Rose N.G., has worked at many different Iranian cafes and restaurants in the past 25 years. (Suresh Doss/CBC)

Metro Morning's food guide Suresh Doss joins the program every week to discuss one of the many great GTA eateries he's discovered.

This week, he's bringing us toRose Kebab in North York.

Below is a lightlyedited transcript of Doss's conversation withMetro Morninghost Ismaila Alfa.


Ismaila: So we're heading out for some kebabs today?

Suresh: I'm taking you up Don Mills Road today. We're heading into a small food court that is often overlooked.
It's considered to be a hidden gem by many who live in the area, and certainly all the office workers nearby.

The Diamond at Don Mills plaza is home to a number of non-food businesses and a couple of restaurants, but the real gem is this food court that is located at the far west end of the plaza. Inside it, there are about a half a dozen takeout spots. In typical Toronto fashion, there's a Korean spot, a northern Indian counter, a Thai spot. And in the corner, there's Rose's Kebab.

Ghormeh Sabzi at Rose Kebab.
The ghormeh sabzi at Rose Kebab. (Suresh Doss/CBC)

Ismaila:So who is Rose?

Suresh:Rose is someone that has worked in many different Iranian cafes and restaurants in the past 25 years.

She identifies as Persian.She was one of the original pastry chefs at Venus cafe, which is still around today.

And she was one of the original cooks at Super Khorak, which is a legendary Iranian supermarket on Yonge Street. Actually, if you talk to her long enough, she'll tell you a story about how she fed George Harrison some of her home-style Persian cooking during that time.

Waziri Kebab platter at Rose Kebab
The Waziri kebab platter at Rose Kebab. (Suresh Doss/CBC)

So in 2017, she moves to this food courtto open this cubicle-sized takeout spot. And the menu is this dance between some of her favourite Persian dishes and some lunch-time friendly plates like a menu of burgers, to cater to the working community nearby. And then there are some weekend specials that you should know about.This food court is a place where students and workers fill the space for lunches and during dinner time;it's a lot of families.

The owner of Rose Kebab, Rose N.G., serving a shwarma platter at her restaurant.
Rose N.G. is seen here hard at work at Rose Kebab. (Suresh Doss/CBC)

Ismaila: Take me through some of the dishes that you like at Rose's Kebab.

Suresh:The kebabs to start off with. You will find staples in Persian cooking, like koobideh kebab:ground beef marinated a simple mix of onions, salt and pepper and grilled over an open flame. I would suggest you get the Waziri platter, which is the koobideh kebab and a skewer of chicken breast that is marinated in lemon juice and saffron overnight, it has this really interesting perfume to itand that subtle but lingering saffron flavour.

A shawarma platter with hummus at Rose Kebab.
The shawarma platter with hummus at Rose Kebab. (Suresh Doss/CBC)

Ismaila:There's also a shawarma plate that is really good here, I hear.

Suresh: It's a loaded plate with two types of meat, a handful of freshly fried falafel. And at the centreof this place is a heaping dollop of hummus and plenty of drizzles of two house-made sauces that she makes. So, it hits you on all senses, from the charred meatto the creamy hummus and the vibrancy of the sauces.

The Persian Burger at Rose Kebab.
The Persian burger at Rose Kebab has beef and lamb in the patty with an assortment of spices. (Suresh Doss/CBC)

Ismaila: You mentioned a menu of burgers here?

Suresh: Rose wanted to cater to the students here but present some Persian flavours. I really like her Persian burger. This is a beef burger with a good amount of lamb in the patty. And it's spiced with an assortment of spicesand layered with sauces, yogurt. It is a really juicy burger, I highly recommend it.

The front of Rose Kebab, a takeout stall with several signs advertising the food.
Rose Kebab is in the food court at The Diamond at Don Mills. (Suresh Doss/CBC)

Ismaila: OK, so what about the weekend specials?

Suresh: The weekend is where Rose gets to present some of the deeper family favourites of Persian cooking.

Dishes like baghali palo, which is a rice dish that is cooked with beans and fill, and its presented with a slow-cooked lamb shank.

But I think the star for me is the ghormehsabzi. It's one of the most popular Iranian stews, made with beef, kidney beans, an assortment of herbs and spices.But particularly fenugreek leaves and dried limes.

The beef is so tender it falls apart easily and you get the signature sourness from the dried limes. With some deep flavours from the cooked greens. It is an incredibly hearty dish.

If you see it on the menu, you should get it.