That time I flew to an icebreaker buried in ice in the Strait of Belle Isle - Action News
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NLPoint of View

That time I flew to an icebreaker buried in ice in the Strait of Belle Isle

From the air, the icebreaker that has become a lifeline to some coastal communities looks like a red mitten that's been lost in the snow, writes Meg Roberts.

'When you're butting heads with Mother Nature, Mother Nature is going to win'

Standing on the back of the Henry Larsen, this is the view. The ice is under so much stress it piles up on top of itself. (Meg Roberts/CBC)

After flying in a helicopter across Newfoundland and then landing on anicebreaker in the middle of the Strait of Belle Isle, there are two things I learned.

One, there is nothing more powerful than Mother Nature.

Two, don't wear a turtleneck. More on that in a moment.

I was born and raised in Canada's most southerly point, so I don't really know a whole lot about how ice and snow can affect a northern community.

I know in bad weather you should shovel your driveway and be mindful on the roads, but the thought of packs of ice so powerful that they haverestricted the flow of food to grocery stores is completely foreign to me.

So what happens when you can't pass through one of the most travelled passageways between Newfoundland and Labrador? Well, pretty much, all you can do is call the Canadian Coast Guard.

Namely, CCGS Henry Larsen, the only ship that can currently cross the Strait.

A helicopter lands on the CCGS Henry Larsen in the Strait of Belle Isle. (Meg Roberts/CBC)

And even the three-engine-beast is barely able to do that.

CBC wanted to see the ice conditions first-hand, and I was lucky enough to get the assignment.From the helicopter high above, the only thing you can see off the Northern Peninsula is white except for a speck of red, which is the Henry Larsen buried deep in the heart of the ice.

It looks like a lonely red mitten that has been lost in the snow.

With my nose pressed to the window, I yellinto the mouthpiece connected to my helmet, "Please tell me we are not landing on that."

Our trusty pilot, Travis, just laughed and said, "Oh yeah."

The helicopter is secured to the landing pad on the Henry Larsen. (Meg Roberts/CBC)

Boarding the Henry Larsen

To be honest, as impressive as the view is from the air, it's hard to comprehend the issue from on high it all just looks likeice.

It's not until you are standing on the back of the Larsen, wind whipping across your face, do you realize the magnitude of the problem.

The ice is caught in the Strait and, with so much mounting pressure, it has nowhere to go and piles up, creating this tight, thick wall.

Every time the Larsen cuts a wide path, the ice immediately fills back in.

Also did I mention it was cold? Because it was cold.

This has been some of the worst ice conditions I have experienced in my career.- Neal McDonald

So we scurried up to the bridgeof the ship. It's at the front where all the commands are made.

It's like walking into the command centre on the starship USS Enterprise onStar Trek,except that instead of outer space, you're surrounded by ice.

This is also where the commanding officer of the ship, Neal McDonald, hangs out.

Neal McDonald, the commanding officer of the Henry Larsen, leads the crew from the command centre. (Meg Roberts/CBC)

With a smile on his face and enthusiasm in his voice, he explains the chaos that currently isthe Strait of Belle Isle.

"This has been some of the worst ice conditions I have experienced in my career," he said.

McDonald explained to us the ship is operating with 16,000 horsepower, and is still having a hard time breaking the ice.

This is what the crew in the command centre of the CCGS Henry Larsen see as they try to get through heavy ice. (Meg Roberts/CBC)

It's a constant battle of backing up and ramming into the ice. Certain parts of the Strait of Belle Isle have taken crews a dozen tries to punch through the wall of ice.

It's obvious when listening to McDonald speak that he loves his job.

It's also obvious that this has been a challenging time. The Larsen is expected to be in the area for a couple of weeks.

Coastal communities in southern Labrador have road access, but the ability for goods to come by ship has been knocked out of kilter. Weather conditionswill need to improve dramatically for things to get back to normal.

"When you're butting heads with Mother Nature," McDonald said, "Mother Nature is going to win."

Helicopters are unbelievable

It's the ability to land and take off whenever, wherever that makes helicoptersthe coolest form for transportation.

They also are gas guzzlers. So we had to stop halfway through a three-hour flight to refuel.

Our chopper lands on a small cement pad in Twillingate to refuel. (Meg Roberts/CBC)

The pilot lands on a tiny concrete pad in Twillingate, where a tank of gas is stationed. Apparently there are several of these remote refueling stations across the province.

In a strange way, I think riding in a helicopter would be like riding on the back of a butterfly, bobbing and weaving in the wind to perch on one rock or another.

A note about turtlenecks

I want to make it very clear I am completely and utterly grateful for an experience of a lifetime.

Not only was I able to travel to a part of the country very few people are able to visit, I was also privileged enough to see the beautiful east coastfrom an incredible vantage point.

This province is gorgeous, although I don't think I need to tell any of you that.

My entire camera roll is dedicated to beautiful aerial shots of the east coast of the province. (Meg Roberts/CBC)

However, there was one thing and only one thing that hindered my amazing experience.

The helicopter suit.

My mom works in occupational health and safety, so let me tell you, I get it.

But the suit is so tight around your neck, it feels like someone is choking you out. The ability to speak actually becomes challenging.

And for that reason, I learned that should you ever get a dream assignment in a helicopter don't put on a turtleneck.

This is me! Reeling at the beauty of a province I have come to love. (Meg Roberts/CBC)

Read morefromCBC Newfoundland and Labrador